A Royal Christmas featuring Otway Pork Ham
Media article
The magic begins: farm to table
Behind every celebrated ham lies a story that begins in the paddocks, where local producers invest years of careful breeding, sustainable farming practices and an unwavering commitment to animal welfare. Linton Batt – livestock breeder, RAS Councillor, and passionate advocate for premium Australian pork – believes that the best meat comes from the best livestock and that breed, nutrition and production methods all shape the final product’s quality, forging vital connections across the industry. Batt insists that high eating quality goes hand-in-hand with high welfare standards. “When animals are happy, healthy and cared for to high welfare standards, you get high eating quality too,” he says. The process involves everything from testing water quality to making careful breeding decisions – not just buying new livestock and hoping for a quick fix. As Batt puts it, “You will never get delicious meat from a bad system. Just can’t happen. That’s science.”
What sets Sydney Royal medal winning hams apart?
But what do the judges look for when naming a Sydney Royal gold medal winner? For Greg Bonnefin, Chair of Judges for Smallgoods and Charcuterie, it comes down to a handful of critical traits that separate the ordinary from the truly exceptional. “First off, it’s presentation. Does it look appetising? How’s the cut surface – is there a good balance of fat, no unwanted jelly pockets? For bone-in hams, the workmanship required is significant; it’s not just visual, it’s about the skill in trimming, processing, and curing,” Bonnefin explains. Yet it’s taste that ultimately defines the Sydney Royal standard: “A real award-winning ham looks fantastic – but it has to taste even better. You want a classic ham flavour that isn’t over-salty, firm but not watery, and holds together when sliced.” The type of pig, how it’s raised, and the diet all subtly influence the final product. “A locally grown pig that’s out on pasture or living an active life will have better texture and flavour, but it takes real care in cooking – long, slow steam or water cooking makes for a more tender, flavourful ham. That’s where knowledge and experience really count”.
Quality in every step: The ham producer’s obsession
For some prize-winning producers, the journey to a Sydney Royal gold medal really does start in the paddock. Natalee Ward of Otway Pork describes a process driven by what she calls “an obsession for quality.” Raised in free-range environments or eco shelters with straw and enrichment, Otway’s pigs are cared for in line with the team’s broader commitment to animal welfare. Ward explains, “At every point through the pig’s life, there’s just an obsession for quality. No shortcuts, no growth promotants, nothing artificial – just the best care, from start to finish”. When it comes to producing the ham itself, Otway’s meticulous approach continues. “Our hams are double smoked with mountain ash wood chips for a delicate flavour,” Ward explains. “And our butchers work to strict specifications – every Otway ham, whether it’s a traditional full leg or our popular mini version, is crafted for consistency, texture and taste.” For Otway, accolades are hard-won. Winning a Sydney Royal medal is a career-defining moment. As Ward reflects, “We’ve won national and even international awards, but winning at the Sydney Royal was a big gong for us. It’s recognition from a really knowledgeable food community, and it shows that what we’re doing matters”.
Ward echoes that sentiment. Winning at the Sydney Royal lifted spirits across her team’s farms in southwest Victoria. “Those gold awards really are a testament to the one-percenters – the little things our team does every day, in all weather, to make sure the quality stays high. It’s not easy work, but getting recognised by Sydney Royal tells us we’re on the right track,” she says.
